Final Lab: Crème Brûlée

Crème Brûlée

Signature Outcomes: These are the optimal qualities we are looking for when completing this recipe!

• Color

• darker, caramelized sugar topping

• opaque, light yellow custard

• Texture

• Custard is thick, not runny, and firm with a slight jiggling when shaken. It is smooth and homogeneous throughout.

• Crunchy, shatter-able top that is thin and crystallized.

• Flavor

• Custard is cool, creamy, and richly sweet. 

• Crystallized layer is sweet, crunchy, and should not be too thick as to dominate the flavor, nor too thin as to be insufficient.

Ingredients: Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez

• 1 1/2 cups (355ml) heavy cream

• 1 1/2 cups (355ml) whole milk

• 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

• 1/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume

• 7 large egg yolks (98g)

• 1/2 cup (100g) granulated sugar

• Just-boiled water, for the water bath

• Raw or granulated sugar, for topping (see note)

• 

  Measured Ingredients, excluding the egg yolks.

Instructions: Steps from Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez, and narrative provided by Ally

1. In a saucepan, combine heavy cream, whole milk, vanilla bean/seeds, and salt. I used a paring knife to slit open the vanilla bean, and slid it along the length to remove most of its innards. I tossed the scraped out seeds and mostly emptied pod into saucepan, then stirred in the liquids.

   

   This is where the Crème comes from! The black specks of vanilla are visible, the cooking allows the flavor to infuse the dairy.

   
   

2. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat, then remove from heat, cover, and let stand 1 hour. This took a bit longer than expected. The milk and cream mixture developed a slight film on the top as it heated, which I limited through stirring. Once it started to bubble a bit and steam, I moved it off the burner. While waiting, I cleaned my equipment and began preparing for the next steps.

3. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 325ºF (163ºC). I waited until about 40 minutes into my hour-long waiting period. I gave it another fifteen minutes before moving on.

4. In a large bowl, whisk yolks with granulated sugar until smooth. As the Serious Eats website explains, this step needs to wait until the dairy mixture is cooled and ready. If it is not ready, the sugar will absorb moisture from the eggs and clump---something very detrimental to the classic, smooth texture we are aiming for. As such, I completed the next step immediately.

   

   I whisked in the sugar gradually, but quickly, for a thorough mix.

   
   

5. Set a fine-mesh strainer over yolk mixture and pour cream mixture through; discard vanilla bean. Whisk custard base until thoroughly combined. This step took some precision due to the size difference between my strainer and pot. The straining removed the bits of film and clumps of seeds. I was able to pluck the vanilla bean strips from the bottom of the pan. The two mixtures blended well and fast, so there was not much whisking required.

   

   Adding the dairy (featuring my itty-bitty-teeny-weeny-wire-mesh-strainer-thingy).

   
   

6. Set six 4-ounce ramekins in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Divide custard base between the ramekins, filling them 1/4 inch from the top of the rim. I used a slightly larger dish than the recommended 9 x 13, and I cannot guarantee my ramekins are all actually 4 oz (I'm pretty sure they are). I arranged them in two rows and filled them with a ladle, which was very effective. I had a little less than a tablespoon remaining after each was filled, and I discarded it.

7. Pour just-boiled (not boiling) water (180º to 200ºF/88º to 93ºC) into baking dish until it comes 2/3 of the way up the ramekins, then transfer baking dish to middle rack of preheated oven. I poured the water straight out of the saucepan I had boiled it in. After boiling it during the cooling period, I had let it simmer for a few minutes, then took it off the heat as I was doing steps 4-6. I checked the temperature before adding it to the pan.

   

   I very carefully placed the pan in the oven, as my previous lab indicates,
   I do not have a great track record when it comes to putting glass pans in the oven.
   

Experiments in Baking: Ciabatta Bread

Baking Bread

Recipe for Ciabatta Bread taken from Lab 10

The first step in the recipe was done in advance--- the making of the 'sponge'
The sponge is primarily yeast and flour, and the starch, a microorganism, digests the starch in the yeast. The chemical reaction, which takes place during the overnight fermentation process, generates Carbon Dioxide, resulting in the bubbles.

The next day, I added the sponge to the other ingredients to create the dough, then separated the dough into two pieces, which I proceeded to bake. I placed a pan of water on the rack below, which generated enough steam to slow the baking of the crust and adding enough moisture to prevent burning and toughness. Then I cleaned up the broken glass off the floor from the first pan I was going to use... As anyone who has watched me cook can attest, I am not what one would call 'graceful.'

After removing the bread from the oven, where it was raised and solidified through the heat, and cooling it, I sliced open the small loaf. The inside was much softer than the outside, and had large pockets of air caused by trapped gas bubbles from the mixing, kneading, and the released CO2. The gluten network in bread is very strong, and greatly contributes to the structure as well.

The bread was sweeter and softer than I expected, given the tough crust on the outside. It was quite hearty and tasted lovely with homemade strawberry jam.

To further my baking experiences, I divested the tree in my yard of it's small, sour, pie cherries (risking life and limb to do so), and pitted them (risking my remaining sanity), to make a pie. The filling was straightforward and reminiscent of earlier labs, particular the ones focusing on starch, due to the thickening process. The crust was in many ways similar to the formation of the bread, but notably lacking any yeast. As such, the dough did not rise, nor form any of the bubbles caused by kneading and CO2 production. The crust was firm and flaky and sweet, unlike the spongy texture caused by the yeast containing bread.

Experimenting with Chocolate: Chantilly Mousse

 

Chantilly Chocolate

95 mL - Orange Juice
approx. 100 g - Milk Chocolate
Ice Bath

Taken from provided recipe on Lab 8

After melting chocolate and heating the juice until a combined, hot, liquid, I put the mixture over ice water and whisked until it thickened. The crystal form of the chocolate changed (twice) with the temperature adjustments as the molecule speed and structure reacted to the energy input/cease, and the texture grew fluffier with the addition of air.

I continued whipping until soft peaks formed, and removed the chocolate mixture from the ice bath. The soft, smooth texture of the mousse turned out really well! The final texture was very pleasant and reminiscent of moist, fluffy frosting. If I were to do it differently next time, I would use a liquid with another flavor profile, such as coffee. The tartness and acidity of the orange juice complemented the sweet, gentle chocolate, but did not create a very rich taste.

 I put my mousse on some chocolate cake that I definitely did not drop a significant distance. It was quite delicious, and added an element of lightness to the dense cake.

Experimenting with Dairy: Queso Blanco

CHEESE

I used the recipe provided for Queso Blanco to make cheese for the first time! 

The first step was to heat the whole milk to a frothy simmer. 

I made sure the temperature remained between 160 and 185 degrees Fahrenheit by using Thelma the thermometer, who I bought to replace the dearly departed Dave, as he had met his end in the caramel experiment. 

The second step was to add white vinegar into the milk to separate the curds from the whey.

As I added the acidic vinegar, it caused the proteins (which form the curds) to denature; causing them to unfold and coagulate as the structure changed and separated. It was fascinating to watch, but not what I would call pretty. Or pleasantly aromatic.

The third step was to remove the curds from the whey.

The curd was wet and crumbly. I placed it into a cheesecloth lined colander and allowed the whey to drain out; drying out the curds and allowing them to stick together.

The fourth step was to form the cheese.

 I squeezed all of the excess whey out of the curd and added some salt before I squished them into a vaguely square shape.

 Finally, I pressed (under a bottle of water, currently sporting a robot as it was recently used for target practice) and refrigerated the cheese. The finished product was a bit crumbly, and not particularly remarkable, but the process was successful, and in the future, I would like to make it again, and experiment with adding some different flavors to the cheese.

Experimenting with Starch: Potatoes

 

Starchy Potatoes

First and foremost, I sliced up my russet potatoes
then I rinsed the spears to remove excess starch on the outside
for a more even, effective browning. 

I did not have cayenne, which the posted recipe called for,
so I infused my olive oil with diced rosemary, and an assortment of spices I did have,
including some garlic, crushed red pepper, black pepper and salt. 

I steamed the potato spears next. The heat and moisture enabled the starch to gel,
swelling and softening as it bonded to water, as explained in the lecture on polysaccharides. The resultant texture was sticky to the touch and crumbled apart easily due to the softness, the spears were nearly translucent in some places.

After steaming the potatoes and covering them in the herbed and spiced oil,
I put them in the oven to brown. For the last few minutes, I also melted parmesan cheese on top of the potatoes. The browning turned out very well, if I had used a less starchy, waxy potato, I don't think it would have been as effective.

The final product was soft on the inside with a crisp and taut skin. The rosemary had a strong flavor, and the skin provided a slightly bitter, earthy taste. In the future, I would add more spice as the mild inside of the potato was most distinguishable, pleasant but not very flavorful.

Experimenting with Carmelization

Caramel

 After adding together the sugar, water, and salt, listed on the Serious Eats website's recipe for easy caramel sauce, I stirred the mixture on the stove until it began to boil. I then allowed the beginnings of the caramel to heat undisturbed.

 Once the caramel had begun to darken, I added in the cream, and began to stir again. The recipe demanded that I continue this step until the caramel reached 225 degrees. As demonstrated in the photo, it was at this point in time that I came to realize my thermometer was, in fact, broken. 

Thus began what I would call the 'winging it' stage.

 The recipe estimated that it would take about three minutes for the caramel to turn a deeper shade of brown and become its sticky, completed self. Looking at the photo of what the finished product was supposed to resemble, I gave it longer than three minutes. The browning, or caramelization is caused by the energy of the heat interacting with the sugar, changing the color and adding depth of flavor. I did not want to lessen it's impact by cutting the process short by accident. 

 I think it is safe to say that something went wrong. Where, and when, I am not certain. The taste was pleasant, and sweet, but the resultant texture was incorrect, leading me to believe that the sugar did not fully melt, and that it perhaps did not get hot enough. We will have to try again!

Experimenting with Maillard Browning: Roast Potatoes

 

Maillard Reaction in Action

 I began this process by boiling chunks of potato to softness. I simultaneously heated my aromatic herbs (rosemary and garlic) in olive oil to extract the flavor. This recipe was surprisingly easy, and I think the different stages of cooking the potatoes went well.

  Once my potatoes were tender, I removed them from water and shook them up with the oil (separated from herbs). They developed a thin layer of mashed up potato on the outsides. Once they were coated and "roughed up" I placed them on a pan, then put them in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit, pulling them out and tossing them every 15 minutes.

 The potatoes browned due to the combination of proteins (specifically the amino acids that build them) and sugars in high heat known as the Maillard Reactions, as detailed in the lecture by the same name. The reaction was accelerated by the addition of baking soda when boiling the potatoes. After they were satisfactorily browned, I removed them from the oven and tossed them in the remaining herbs and a bit more oil.

The resulting potatoes were soft on the inside, and crisp on the outside. The brownness added extra depth reminiscent of umami flavor profiles. The herbs added an element of almost tart-ness, and more of a 'green' taste. It was quite good, but everything was fairly mild. If I were to do this again, I would add parmesan to bring out the sharpness and add more bold salty, umami flavors.

In addition to the potatoes, I also made turkey breast in an Italian dressing and green beans with a variety of seasonings. The different flavors went well together and added some more herb tastes to the potatoes.

Experimenting with Egg Foam: Meringues!

 

  

Ingredients from the provided recipe

Meringue Cookies

Removing the egg yolks eliminated
the characteristic fat, allowing
reactions to take place between 
the proteins in the white.
As the egg whites were whipped,
they began to foam and bubble.

The reaction increased as I continued to agitate them
(adding energy).
The whites began to stiffen, 
growing more solid.

After piping the resultant mixture onto pans,
I baked the cookies at 225 degrees
for an hour, then let them sit to cool.
The recipe recommended an hour of
cooling/hardening in dry climates.
I live in Portland...
I let them cool for two.

Finished product!
The texture of the 
meringues went well!

   

The cookies were crisp,
especially on the outside,
despite fluffy appearance, 
and sweet to taste. There 
was not much flavor, and
I would experiment with
adding more in the future.